I was born and raised in Pennsylvania, and I spent almost a decade in North Carolina where I began to hike on a regular basis to get back into shape after a major surgery. I had been a runner and then a trail-runner. Becoming a hiker was just the natural progression. I preferred shorter, easy trails that led to waterfalls and views. For me, it was all about the destination, not the journey.
North Carolina did not disappoint. It has over 1000 waterfalls, the second most of the eastern states. Over the years, I also explored other parts of the eastern seaboard – the Appalachians, Blue Ridge Mountains, Great Smoky Mountains, and Acadia National Park. I considered myself a pretty experienced hiker.
Making the Move Out West
Then in the fall of 2020, I moved to Ogden, Utah, for a job opportunity. I had never lived away from the East Coast before, and this was going to be a wild adventure.
My first hike in Utah was to the Ogden Waterfall. The hike was so different than what I was used to – slow, hot, winding, dirty, dusty – and that waterfall! What a disappointment! I came upon a large rock face with a trickle of water coming down. Not what this East Coast girl would call a waterfall!
I had yet to understand the landscape and terrain in which I was now living. I didn’t realize that despite the trees, green lawns, and plants around town, northern Utah was just as much a desert as southern Utah. Water is especially precious and scarce in the desert, but when it flows, it is amazingly beautiful.
While living in Utah, I also got to explore so many diverse areas of the western United States – Utah’s Big 5 National Parks, Yellowstone, Grand Tetons, and various parts of Utah, Arizona, Wyoming, Montana, Idaho, Oregon, and Colorado.
I really missed the things I loved about my eastern hikes, but I grew to love the diversity and challenges the West had to offer. I realized that although I’ve hiked a lot of places by now, I still have so much more to experience.
Utah waterfall trickle on the left versus North Carolina waterfall on the right
Comparing Coast to Coast
About a year ago, I moved back east, and I brought the Women’s Wine Hiking Society with me. I became the first WHS Ambassador for Georgia. After leading one of my first hikes here, I said, “Wow, they call that ‘strenuous’? In Utah, that would be moderate at most.”
Yes, I’ve become that hiker… constantly comparing. Now that I’ve been back on the East Coast for almost a year, here are the main differences I see between hiking out West and hiking out East.
#1 Attitude about Altitude
Let’s face it! Anyone who sets eyes on the mountains of the West will marvel at their sheer height. They make eastern mountains look like foothills. There are a total of 477 “major summits” (with at least 9,843 ft of topographic elevation and at least 1,640 feet of topographic prominence) in the US, and 407 of those are in the West, 70 are in Alaska and Hawaii, and none are east of the Mississippi River. The tallest eastern summit is Mount Mitchell in North Carolina, standing at only 6,684 ft in elevation.
While some people are “summit stalkers” and get a high out of bagging the tallest mountains, others do not love elevation. I’m in the latter camp.
I didn’t complete the first summit hike I attempted in Utah. I was already at 8,000 ft in the parking lot, and within my first half mile, I thought I was dying. My heart was pounding; my lungs were wheezing and hurt like never before; and I was nauseous and dizzy. I had never experienced altitude sickness before, and I didn’t quite understand what was going on.
I just decided to slow down. I struggled to make it to 10,000 ft before I gave up and waited there for my hiking partner to summit and return for me. I was proud I made it that far.
About 2 years later, with the aid of an asthma inhaler, I went on to summit the 10,700 ft Paintbrush Divide in Grand Teton National Park. It was glorious, but I don’t know that I’ll ever attempt anything taller than that. I’m glad to be back at an elevation at which I don’t need a rescue inhaler.
#2 It’s Not the Size that Matters; It’s How you Hike it!
I believe most people think that the taller the mountain, the harder the hike. Not necessarily. The mountains in the east, especially along the Appalachian Trail, are known to be absurdly steep and narrow, crossing rock fields, and sometimes involving climbing boulders as much as hiking. Many of the hardest hikes in the east are all about ascending in the shortest distance possible despite the obstacles in your way.
On the other hand, most trails in the west are well-defined and include switchbacks to allow for an easier hiking grade up the mountains. Some of the most famous examples are Walter’s Wiggles on the way up to Angels Landing in Zion National Park. Personally, I find them equally difficult – you’re just trading muscle for endurance.
#3 Are You a Desert Dragon, Forest Fairy or a Snow Bunny?
When I was in Utah, my 18-year-old niece came out to visit me. I wasn’t sure how I would entertain her during the week she was visiting, so I sent her some pictures and asked if she wanted to go glamping in Moab. It’s pretty hard to pass up the iconic Delicate Arch, so wonderfully photographed in all its sunrise glory.
We had a great time visiting Dead Horse Point State Park, Canyonlands, and Arches National Park – all beautiful desert landscapes with amazing red rock formations. We sat outside our tent cooking our hot dogs over the fire, staring up at the amazing display of oh-so-many stars against the huge, dark sky. I’ve never seen such a beautiful night sky.
Fast forward to a few months ago, I asked my niece if she wanted to go on another hiking trip with me. She said, “not to Utah, right”? She said Utah had too many rocks and sand. Yeah, well, I guess you need to like rocks and sand to like Utah! Personally, I love rocks and sand. I’ve seen some of the most unique landscapes out in the west. Sometimes you feel like you are on another planet.
But coming back east to Georgia, I realized how much I missed the water, diversity of flora, and the dense, old-growth forests. You hike in the summer and aren’t cooked by the glaring sun. Of course, you do have to contend with the mosquitoes and humidity.
And there’s no season like fall in the east. Tourists flock to admire the reds, oranges, yellows, browns, and greens of the changing autumn leaves, and they enjoy the cooling but moderate weather. Then comes winter, and most Easterners return indoors and hibernate, especially Southerners.
In Utah, we hiked year-round. I actually found winter and snow hiking to be my favorite. It wasn’t too cold, and if you prepared right, you were completely comfortable layering up and wearing your crampons or ice spikes.
Mooney, my doggie sidekick, did much better on snowy hikes. He didn’t overheat and knew exactly where the trail was going. The silence of hiking through a snowfall is incredibly peaceful.
Now back in Georgia, most of our hikers don’t show up if there’s even rain in the forecast. They are definitely a fair-weather bunch. I’m not sure I could even get anyone to hike in the snow.
#4 It’s a Wild, Wild World!
It was amazing to see all the wildlife in the West. Everything is bigger and badder out there. I’ve seen wildlife right in front of me that I would only see in zoos elsewhere. I’ve encountered rattlesnakes in the Sonoran Desert.
I learned the safe distance to stay away from bison on Antelope Island – at least 25 yards. I was able to photograph elk, moose, deer, a black fisher, and a grizzly bear while backpacking through Grand Teton National Park.
I had a black bear hang out 20 feet from me in camp as I stood with my bear spray, yelling, “Hey, bear. Go away, bear.” I hung out with a moose in the middle of the road in Rocky Mountain National Park. (I was in my car, and he was just walking down the middle of the road in between the snow dunes.)
I was very fortunate to have these encounters and live through them unscathed. But western wildlife is very dangerous. For me, once in a lifetime is enough. I very much appreciate my peaceful encounters with the white-tailed deer, and I will carry my bear spray in case I do come across those black bears they tell me are in these Georgia mountains.
So Which Coast Wins?
There are so many wonderful things about hiking in both the eastern and western US. I can’t really choose a favorite! Sometimes you want easy; sometimes you want a challenge. Sometimes you have all day; sometimes you are trying to fit a hike into your busy schedule. Sometimes you want adventure and something new; sometimes the familiar and comfortable. Whatever you choose, keep on wandering.
So, what is your favorite? East or West, and why? Tell me below!
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I’m an easterner and moved to Utah from Washington DC several years ago. The bugs and humidity back east make me prefer western hiking, hands down! Plus I find the spectacular vistas in “big sky country” to be much more inspiring.