Hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc: An Experience of a Lifetime!

“Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt!” – John Muir

As hikers, we can all relate to wanting to get out on the dirt path. We want to fill our souls with nature and push our bodies to climb new heights. And, as Wine Hikers, we want to enjoy the hike by connecting to others over a glass of wine. There’s nothing better! But what about…

• Walking the dirt path for 11 days?
• Trekking across 3 countries?
• Covering more than 100 miles?
• Climbing the same elevation gain as Mount Everest?
• Drinking French, Italian, and Swiss wine along the way?

I wasn’t sure I was up to the task, but I knew I wanted to try! (I mean there was wine involved.) So, I set out to tackle the iconic Tour du Mont Blanc.

This is the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB)

The TMB is an iconic 105-mile hike that circumnavigates Mont Blanc, the highest peak in Europe. The trail goes through France, Italy, and Switzerland with most hikers traveling counterclockwise.

The hike is typically divided into 11 stages that start and end in the Chamonix Valley in France. Each stage, or day, encompasses an 8-14 mile hike in the Alps with approximately 3,000-4,000 feet of elevation gain and about the same amount of descent. Basically, you hike up in the morning and down in the afternoon – every darn day!

Along the way, you stay in mountain huts, known as refuges. The refuges provide a warm evening meal, a bed, a shower, a cold breakfast, and the opportunity to connect with fellow hikers. And, yes, a glass of wine or a beer is always available to unwind from the day!

How do I know? Because my husband and I just completed this experience of a lifetime!

This is My TMB

Everyone’s TMB experience is unique. We met ultra runners from around the world who were running the trail over several days. We met Italians who took it slow and meditated every afternoon. We met guided groups who had the planning done for them. We met families who were doing sections of the trail.

No matter how you experience it, the TMB is truly life changing!

My Tour du Mont Blanc was an 11-day self-guided adventure filled with awe, pain, sweat, tears, joy, support, awareness, and so much beauty!

Everyday, awesome views and lessons unfolded. 

Day 1: With much anticipation and a little fear, we started the hike we had planned for a year! We crossed a Himalayan suspension bridge, climbed the Col de Tricot, descended on long and steep switchbacks, had lunch in a fairy-tale valley, climbed a Roman Road, and arrived at an over 100-year-old-family-run refuge. On day one, I learned to “Breathe it all in!”

Day 2: The sounds of melodic cowbells motivated us the first few miles toward the Col du Bonhomme. Although the bells sounded beautiful,  they couldn’t quiet the voice in my head that said, “You can’t do this.” But, one slow step at a time and encouragement from my husband got me to the top of the pass. The rocky slopes, scary waterfall crossing, and steep downhill made me realize, “You can’t do this… alone.”

Day 3: With a better attitude, I made it to the high altitude pass of Col de la Seigne.  At the top, French Boy Scouts were singing and so was I! We made it to the border of Italy! The views of the Mont Blanc were worth the effort and were in sight the entire day. We joined the pilgrimage of people through the beautiful valley to our lakeside accommodations. Gazing at the glacial blue water while sipping a delicious Italian red, it struck me that “dreams come true by doing.”

Day 4: Our early morning ascent led us to a magical mountain land. Waterfalls, streams, fields of wildflowers, colorful butterflies, and incredible views of the Alps made me believe in fairies and myself! The trail and a gondola ride led us down to Courmayeur, Italy. The town was celebrating the feast day of their Saint and the streets were filled with food, families, and music. It was a great day to“enjoy small moments that arise.”

Day 5: Mornings are meant for climbing and this day was no exception! With wild strawberries along the shaded path, we made it to the top and back to the views of Mont Blanc. The remainder of the trail crossed rivers, went through farms, and meandered to a final climb to Rifugio Bonatti.

This refuge is the best on the TMB! This is an amazing feat, considering they bring in ALL supplies (including food) by helicopter. This was a day to “appreciate the hard work of others.” 

Day 6: We climbed the Grand Col Ferret into Switzerland saying “arrivederci” to Italy. Not even bee stings or encounters with giant Pyrenees dogs could keep me from dancing on the mountain top like Julie Andrews in The Sound of Music! This 14-mile day was filled with new friends, cold beer, and sore feet. My lesson? “Your socks matter. Darn it!”

Day 7: Who could resist zip-lining with Swiss children in a playground? Not me! While the trail on Day 7 was not memorable, the charming Swiss towns were! Gnomes, miniature churches, hiking monks, water troughs, and robotic lawn mowers were a delightful distraction from my feet, which were developing severe blisters. I decided to hop on a bus for the last 3 mile ascent to the lakeside town of Champex Lac because “sometimes you have to pivot.” 

Day 8: With bandaged feet, new silk-lined Wright Socks, and delicious pastries in my stomach, I felt ready to return to the dirt path. Unfortunately, my blistered feet had other ideas. While my husband journeyed on foot, I used Google maps to figure out an alternative way. Two buses, two train rides and four hours later, I found my way to our next trail stop in Trient-le Peuty.

On my journey, I met many hikers bypassing the trail due to altitude, a sore knee, and blisters like me. My husband hiked in and found me resting in our accommodation for the night: a Mongolian yurt! I went to bed, reminding myself, “resting does not make you weak.”

Day 9: After a delicious breakfast, we chatted with friends we met on the trail up to the Col de la Balme. Everyone was trying to beat the storm, but the storm won. The refuge at the top was a great place to stop, dry off, and have a cup of tea while admiring the view of the Chamonix valley. We were back in France!

We hiked down the ski slope, took a Gondola to the quaint town of le Tour, and walked past Easter Island replica statues to our over 300-year-old refuge in Tre-le-Champ. This was by far our worst stay of the hike but “sometimes you just have to laugh or you’ll cry.

Day 10: The ladders! This section was one I equally anticipated and feared. After a 2-mile hike uphill (of course), we made it to the first of 10 ladders, which are attached to the rock face of the mountain. You climb a ladder, grasp a metal bar at the top, and shimmy around a curve – to another ladder. The tip here? Don’t look down!

It took a lot of exertion and mental focus to complete this section, but it was worth it to get to our final destination, Lac Blanc! This is one of the most beautiful spots on the TMB. We spent the night at the refuge to enjoy the pristine lake without the hoards of day hikers. I could now hear myself say, “you can do hard things.”

Day 11: Morning couldn’t come soon enough as the man in the bunk beside me snored all night, leaving me sleepless. But, when it did come, my heart was full at seeing the sunrise over the peaks and the mist covering Lac Blanc.

There are many ways to descend to the Chamonix valley to complete the TMB. We opted for a short hike and a gondola down from la Flegere station. Then, we walked through the valley, back to where we started. We had come full circle! Every day on the trail was a reminder to “enjoy the journey and keep moving forward.”

Everyone’s TMB experience is their own. This was mine (blisters and all)! 

Whichever dirt path you choose to take, I hope you find your own life lessons and, at the end of the day, a glass of wine with new friends!

Thinking of doing the Tour du Mont Blanc? Let me know what questions you have below!

Resources: 

• Website and Zoom consultation from Mags Nixon at Tour du Mont Blanc Hike.
• Guidebook: Trekking the Tour of Mont Blanc by Kev Reynolds

Robin Matthews

Sierra Nevada (CA) Ambassador