Backpacking Buckskin Gulch & Paria Canyon

Backpacking Buckskin Gulch and Paria Canyon requires an overnight use permit that must be obtained through the Bureau of Land Management (BLM). Only 20 people per day can camp in Paria Canyon, so you will need to plan ahead, especially if you want to go during the more popular months of April to June and September to November.

In this post, I’m going to cover the following:

 

• What to consider when planning your trip
• How to secure a permit
• Where springs and points of interest are located
• What gear we recommend

 

Ready to secure your permit? Here are three things to consider first.

1. When to Go

You can get permits year-round, but different months present different challenges. Here’s my advice: consider going when temperatures are cooler and the risk of flash floods is lower (April – June, September – November).

The canyon will likely be wetter April to August, and you will be wading through more mud and pools of water. September to November has less water to wade through (unless there has been a recent storm), but springs are less reliable and run much slower. We went mid-October, and the conditions were perfect, although we did still have to wade through a few knee-high deep mud pits.

2. Where to Enter and Exit

You will need to specify your entry and exit point when reserving your permit. The most popular entry and exit points are White House and Wire Pass to Lee’s Ferry.

ROUTE OPTIONS (any of these can be done in reverse order):

• White House to Wire Pass or Buckskin Gulch Trailhead – 2 or 3 days
• White House, Wire Pass, or Buckskin Gulch Trailhead to Lee’s Ferry – 3 to 5 days

Decide which trailhead works best for you and your group. Consider the mileage you will need to cover each day and your abilities, as well as the abilities of those going with you.

3. How Many Days You Want to Spend in the Canyon

The more days you have to explore, the more you can enjoy these two amazing canyons. Depending on which route you choose, the entire trip can be anywhere from 20 to 46 miles, more if you do any side hikes. It is recommended you do the longer route options in four to five or more days, but ambitious folks will do it in three.

 

Now that you’ve considered those three items, here’s how to secure a permit.

To get your permit, log onto https://www.recreation.gov/permits/74984 no earlier than four months in advance. For example, if you would like permits in June, you can reserve a permit on March 1 at 12:00 PM (noon) MST. The cost is $5 per person per day plus a $9 reservation fee.

Now that you have your permit, it is time to start planning! Here are some things to consider.

1. Shuttle Set-up

Unless you’re doing an out and back (boring!), you will need to leave at least one vehicle at your entry and exit points. It is also not a bad idea to have a hide-a-key somewhere on your vehicle(s) just in case you lose your keys or accidently lock them in your vehicle (happened to me…. Oops!).

2. Water / Springs

Be prepared to carry around 4-6 liters of water per day. You cannot count on all the springs, especially later in the year. If you are going with a larger group, try to have a few different types of water filtration systems in case one fails. I also recommend taking some water purification tablets. We did it on a low water year and got lucky: the Paria River was mainly being fed from reliable springs and was really clear. We filtered straight from the river most of the time. This is a rare occurrence. Usually, it is so silty your filters clog almost immediately.

 

3. Miles per Day / Campsites

Know how many miles you must cover each day and where the campsites are located. I recommend shooting for a camp near one of the springs. There are several maps and guidebooks available that will point out the different campsites and spring locations. I bought a guide from the ranger station for $12. Regardless, be prepared to cover no less than 14 miles on your first or last day if you choose to enter or exit at Wire Pass Trailhead, further if you start or end at Buckskin Gulch Trailhead.

4. Wag Bags

If you refuse to poop in a bag, this trip is not for you, so stay away. Honestly though, it is not that bad once you give it a try! I felt the same way most do the first time I was told I had to poo in a bag and pack it out.

The ranger you pick up your permit from will give you two bags per person for free. Plan on bringing some of your own too just in case you are like me and need at least one for each day in the canyon. You MUST pack everything out, including your toilet paper.

 

Your trip is only days away, what now?! Don’t forget to do these three things.

1. Check the Weather

Please check the weather before heading into the canyon! I cannot stress enough how important this is. Flash floods do happen and can kill you! If there is ANY measurable rain in the forecast, plan to come back and do this epic trip another time. Your life is worth more!

2. Plan for Emergencies

I highly recommend taking a satellite communication device, like the GARMIN InReach Mini. If you run into a life or death situation, it could make all the difference. Also, do not forget to leave your itinerary with a friend or family member. Preferably, a person not going with you! 😉

3. Take Map(s) and a GPS Device

It is nearly impossible to get lost; just keep following the Buckskin Gulch and then head down stream in Paria Canyon. However, I still recommend taking a map and a GPS device to help you navigate and keep track of mileage. I used a combination of GAIA and AllTrails, plus the $12 map from the ranger station.

Locating Springs

Be sure to ask about the status of the springs when you stop to check in at the ranger station and be prepared to carry more water than you had hoped or planned for.

The three springs listed below are the most reliable, but this does not mean that other springs won’t be active during your adventure! Look for lush plants growing straight out from or at the bottom of canyon walls. This is a sure sign that a spring is around! We found a spring at mile 16!

 

• Mile 18~ Big Spring
• Mile 26.4~ Shower Spring
• Mile 29.4~ Last Reliable Spring

(Mileage indicated is based off starting at Wire Pass Trailhead, using the AllTrails recording https://www.alltrails.com/trail/us/utah/wire-pass-to-lees-ferry. Subtract about seven miles if you start your journey from Whitehouse Trailhead and add mileage if starting from Buckskin Gulch Trailhead.)

 

 

Locating Points of Interest

Mile 11.2~ Rock Jam / 15’ drop

When we got to this spot, there was a rope set up to assist you down a rabbit hole. Lower your packs first and then head down. Sometimes this hole is clogged with debris. If this is the case, you will have to use the famous Moqui steps, pictured below, which looked pretty tricky!

It is probably a good idea to bring some sort of rope with you to set up a hand-line for lowering packs and to assist yourself down in case a rope isn’t already there when you do this trip.

 

Mile 13~ Confluence (Buckskin Gulch meets Paria Canyon)

Two of the best campsites are located just before the confluence in Buckskin. We continued another mile or so to a nice campsite across from an unnamed spring.

Mile 16.7~ Abandoned Meander

You can hike a side loop trail on the north (left) side of the canyon. It is a little tricky getting up the slick rock wall, but with a group it is doable. You will need assistance getting up. It was not all that impressive, so I would recommend just skipping it.

Mile 22.3~ Judd Hollow Pump

Here you will find an old rusty water pump station. This was the one and only attempt to pump water from Judd Hollow to East Clark Bench.

 

Mile 24.8~ Wrather Arch

This arch is a two-mile hike up a short side canyon and is definitely worth the effort. There is also a nice campsite just past this side canyon, which is where we stayed the second night.

 

Mile 25.6~ Petroglyph Panel

Located on the left side of the canyon, you’ll need to climb up out of the river bed and then do some minor scrambling up to this panel, but it is worth the extra effort for a closer look!

 

Mile 28.6~ Petroglyph Panel

This panel is easy to miss, so keep an eye out for a large red sand dune on the right-hand side of the Paria River. These petroglyphs are just across from the large sand dune on the left side of the canyon.

Mile 30~ High Water Route

Here, you have the option of continuing along the river or hiking along a route that keeps you high above. We took this route just to get a break from all the river crossings!

Miles 35~ Petroglyph Panel

Look for a large dark boulder covered in petroglyphs. Some appear to be upside down. It is believed that this was to depict the afterlife. VERY COOL!

This panel is on fallen boulders, so you’ll have to do some hunting!

Mile 42~ Lee’s Ferry Trailhead and a cooler full of beer!